For many of us, ginger's heady aroma evokes holiday spice cakes, chubby gingerbread men or edible Hansel and Gretel-style cottages decorated with icing. In my own kitchen though, ginger is not used on a seasonal basis only. I rely on it year-round and use it almost as frequently as salt and pepper to flavor sauces, soups, stews, stir-fries and condiments like chutneys and relishes. It's a truly unique spice in that it can enrich both sweet and savory foods. When it cooks slowly, it adds a husky warmth to all it touches.

Even more fascinating than its versatile flavor, however, is ginger's healing properties. Two thousand years ago, Chinese doctors used ginger to control nausea, vomiting and stomach pain. Taking a cue from ancient Oriental medical history, in the early 1980s researchers at Brigham Young University in Provo, Utah conducted studies of powdered gingerroot in capsule form and found it to be more effective in curing motion sickness and nausea than many popular over-the-counter medications.

It's believed that ginger offers many other health benefits as well: It eases headaches, quiets coughs, stimulates circulation, lowers cholesterol and regulates menstruation. I've found that steeping fresh ginger in hot water makes a soothing digestive tonic, and many of my friends swear by ginger tea as a great cold and sinus remedy. Others claim that nothing relieves sore, achy muscles better than applying a hot ginger compress, made by soaking a towel into a mixture of hot water and grated fresh ginger.

When you buy fresh ginger, select smooth, firm, unblemished roots. The larger the hand, the older and more pungent the flavor. Young ginger, which typically comes from America or Jamaica in late spring and early summer, has a mild flavor, as do the smaller tubers. Large pieces are often broken into small knobs.

Ginger's oil is highly volatile, meaning it vaporizes when exposed to air. So when using ginger, slice off just what you need from the root. Peel away the brown outer layer and working against the grain, chop, grate or slice the fibrous flesh. To extract ginger juice--the most potent part of the root--wrap grated ginger in cheesecloth and squeeze. Keep the unused portions of the tuber wrapped in plastic or paper towels in the refrigerator; they will keep for up to 2 weeks.

Fruit Chutney

MAKES 8 CUPS DAIRY-FREE

Virtually any combination of fresh fruit can be used for this chutney. It is a great accompaniment to grilled foods and a terrific topping for ice cream.

2 cups sugar
1 cup cider vinegar
1 Tbs. peeled, grated fresh gingerroot
4 large ripe peaches, peeled and
chopped (4 cups)
1 pint fresh blueberries
1/2 pint fresh raspberries

IN MEDIUM SAUCEPAN, combine sugar, vinegar and ginger. Bring to a boil. Boil 1 minute; remove from heat and let cool.

In large bowl, combine fruit. Pour syrup over fruit and let stand for about 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Use right away or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate up to 1 week.

PER 1/4-CUP SERVING: 57 CAL.; 0 PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 15G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 1MG SOD.; 1G FIBER,

Exotic Ice Tea

MAKES 2 QUARTS DAIRY-FREE 30

Ginger juice adds a spicy flavor to this refreshing drink.

2 quarts water
1/2 cup peeled, grated gingerroot
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
4 regular-size green tea bags
Honey or sugar to taste (optional)

IN LARGE POT, combine water, ginger and lemon juice and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Add tea bags and let stand 5 minutes. Remove tea bags and stir in honey or sugar if desired. Let cool. Pour tea through a fine sieve into pitcher and serve over ice.

PER 1-CUP SERVING: 77 CAL.; 0 PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 19G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 2MG SOD.; 0 FIBER,

Honey-Ginger Sauce

MAKES 1 3/4 CUPS DAIRY-FREE 30

Here's a good all-purpose sauce to use as a marinade for vegetables, tofu or tempeh, or as a flavor-rich sauce for stir-fries.

2 Tbs. ginger juice
1/2 cup rice wine or sake (see glossary)
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup tamari

TO EXTRACT JUICE from ginger, grate a 4-ounce piece of fresh gingerroot. Tie grated ginger in a piece of cheesecloth and squeeze juice into a small bowl.

Add wine, honey and tamari and mix until well blended. Store in the refrigerator.

PER 2-TABLESPOON SERVING: 54 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 11G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 575MG SOD.; FIBER